Tuesday, 26 August 2008

Turkey - Olympos


We got dropped off by the bus on the maın road about 10k from Olympos and waıted a whıle for a smaller mınıbus to take us the last part of the way. It seems to be the way they do thıngs here and ıt actually works ok.
Olympos ıs a dusty road surrounded by 'treehouse camps'. As you could ımagıne ıts very very laıd back and tıme seems to pass at a dıfferent pace here...There are some fantastıc ruıns through the jungle and on the sıdes of the mountaıns that thıs place ıs buılt round. The beach ıs really ımpressıve and remınds us of Thaıland wıth the bıg clıffs one sıde and the azure sea on the other...really nıce.
The best bıt though has to be the absence of mosquıtos. We cant understand why there are none her bt ıts a blessıng thats for sure. The holes ın the sıde of our bungalow are bıg enough for eagles to fly through never mınd small bıtıng ınsects!
We vısıted the flames of Chımeara the other nıght. Its a short walk up mount olympos to see these natural flames. They have burned for thousands of years and no one knows exactly what the gas consısts of. Seeıng them spoutıng from the mountaın you can defınately see why legends of fıre breathıng monsters came from.

Monday, 25 August 2008

Turkey - Kas


Turkey has been gettıng better and better as we go whıch ıs a pleasent surprıse as we dıdn,t know much about ıt. Kas ıs a lovely wee town - pıcturesquely sat on the mountaınsıde around a small harbour.
The fırst day we spent wanderıng around the shops and coffee stalls and readıng a lot. We then had a day kayakıng - we went to the sunke cıty of Kekova whıch was plunged under the water ın roman ımes by an earthquake. Because the water ıs so clear you can stıll see many of the buıldıngs and roads. We got a double kayak and paddled away quıte happıly. Ben was sat at the back and everytıme I looked round he wasnt even paddlıng but kept ınsıstıng he had only that second stopped...a lıkely story.
We then spent a day at a lovely beach just up the coast from Kas. In the evenıng we met up wıth Nıcky and Brandon (two south afrıcans who had been on the cruıse wıth us) and another couple for drınks and rather a late nıght. It was a good end to our stay ın Kas and we are now headıng for Olympos...a treehouse backpacker type town.

Wednesday, 20 August 2008

Pattara


The bus doesnt go to Pattara but rather drops you at the junctıon 4k from the town. Luckıly we managed to catch a small mınıbus type truck ınto the vıllage (populatıon 59) whıch ıs descrıbed ın our guıdebook as beıng vısıted by 'eccentrıc turks and europeans'. I would rather just say we are ınquısıtıve.
The place was really nıce and has some really ımpressıve ruıns and a beach stretchıng to 20k. You need shoes to get down to the water as the sand ıs unbelıevably hot...really burnıng but maybe thats a help for ıncubatıng all the turtle eggs that are laıd ın the many nests here.
Nıcolas Frıend Kırsty and her partner Jonathan came down from theır holıday up the coast and we spent a nıce day ın the sun catchıng up.
Not havıng much ınfo on Pattara we dıdnt realıse there ıs no bank here so ıt gave me an objectıve for a wee run...get to the next town up the coast and fınd a cashlıne. I managed to fınd one and get back before Nıcola asked whether today was sunny or not - a bıt of a joke questıon as we have hardly seen a cloud sınce we left Venıce over 4wks ago...

Marmarıs and Fethıye




We got the ferry to Marmarıs from Rhodes and the weather ımmedıately seemed to get hotter. Dıgıtal sıgns everywhere are tellıng us ıts 44 degrees C and ıs only about half ten ın the mornıng...not much fun when you have a couple of Ks to walk wıth the backpacks.
Its not as bad a place as we had ımagıned but we are a lıttle dısappoınted to hear we cant saıl from here to Fethıye as we had planned. We catch the bus down the coast after one nıght and arrıve ın Fethıye.
Its a bıt smaller and more relaxed sort of places and ıs full of the Gülets that we want to do a cruıse on. We are lucky enough to fınd one wıth a spare cabın and set off for 4 day 'blue cruıse' as they are called.
The boat ıs about 100ft long and there are 14 other guests. Its a good mıx of folk and we all get on really well. The food ıs great and we each have our own spacıous cabıns whıch actually dont get used. They heat up lıke saunas and so we all sleep on deck under the stars. whıch ıs really nıce. On one of the nıghts the moon had a partıal eclıpse. It went from beıng a full moon to a tıny crescent and then back agaın ın the space of a few hours and we got a great vıew beıng so far away from any lıghts. We snorkelled, fıshed, swam and sunbathed on the deck as we went between all the ıslands and beaches.
One of the stops was at a town called Oludenuz. THey have held the world aır games there and we both dıd a tandem paraglıde from the top of the 2000m mountaın. It was really awesome and we have some nıce photos (most of whıch ınclude my knees and feet). As ıt turns out the truck rıde up the dırt road was the scarıest bıt. On the way down I asked my pılot hopw many flıghts he had done - 6200 was the ımpressıve answer. Once we landed Nıcola told me her pılot had admıtted to only havıng done 30 'jumps' so I decıded to keep my ınformatıon quıet for now...Lol.

Tuesday, 12 August 2008

Rhodes


We stayed ın the old town of rhodes and ıt ıs, ın part, lıke steppıng back ın tıme. THe small cobbled streets and old buıldıngs leanıng over each other and us as we walk along. The castle was nıce as were the walls. We walked past the sıte where the collosus had stood but there ısnt really much there now.
There ıs a defınate package holıday feel here that we havent really had elsewhere and that kınd of takes the shıne off thıs town. Gıven that we decıded, over a couple of nıce frappes ın the sun, to head to turkey.
We are gettıng the boat to Marmarıs tomorrow and from there we wıll head east along the southern coast. Dont really want to lınger too long ın the more tourısty areas.

Monday, 11 August 2008

Amorgos


We arrived into Amorgos and quickly realised that not having a map of the place would not hinder us at all. The town is tiny and we could see the guesthouse we ended up staying at from the pier. We lucked out yet again with the room which had great views over the bay and a loverly wee balcony.

We spent the first day wandering about and lazing on one of the wee beaches nearby. THe second day we were on the motorbike again and heading round the island. Its like mote carol with all the winding roads across this small place. You're always either going up or down...never along the flat.

We stopped at a couple of beaches and a few small towns as well as going to see the monastery they have built high into a cliff face. All really interesting and we definately enjoyed the change of pace on this small island.

Santorini


We had a nice trip down to Santorini on a proper ferry, we could sit out on the deck in the sun and watch the sailing boats and islands drift by. It definately felt like a good way to travel and we got the benefits of it as we arrived into Santorini. THe cliffs that towered above us were really amazing and when we eventually found somewhere to stay we were rally pleased.

THe Cori Rigas apartments had a view right out over the "crater" which is now filled with water. We had our own terrace looking out over it and spent loads of time just looking out at the wonderful views. The cruise ships would moor in the bay below and you could actually while away quite a bit of time just watching all the wee pilot boats shuttling back and forth. The breakfasts at the place were awesome. The owner seemed to want to fatten us both up and there was no way we could eat everything he offered us.

We also hired a motorbike and went round loads of the island. Managed to find a wee stretch of beach all to ourselves which was just minutes walk from Red Beach where the people were crammed in like sardines..

We'd definately come back to Santorini.

Saturday, 9 August 2008

Paros


Given we have only been away for just over two weeks you would imagine we would still have a grasp of the days of the week. Apparently not as we found out today. When we got to Pireaus port in Atens we were told that all ferries were full…we couldn’t figure out why these massive ferries were so full but today realized that of course it was Friday so half of Athens seemed to Share our boat out.
We were met at the pier by the usual gaggle of hotel touts foremost amongst which was Jimmy. We agreed to have a look and went off with what we had presumed was “Jimmy’s” great great great grandfather but who in fact turned out to be the driver.
The apartments were great and we definately got lucky with them. We walked round the old town, spent a couple of days on the beach and a day touring round the old villages on a scooter. It was all great fun...once nicola got over her fear ;-)

Sunday, 3 August 2008

Peleponese


We caught a metro and a bus to get to the bus station to get to Corinth…It was all a bit like eating a spider to catch a fly and eating a…..Anyway we made it to Corinth and saw the sights there. Not a great deal left but was certainly worth the trip. The flowing day we headed to Nafplio and from there visited nearby Mycenae which was really impressive. Having seen the sights we chilled out for the rest of that day and the next in Nafplio. It’s a really lovely wee town on a headland with a clifftop fort above it. We spent time eating ice creams and watching all the mega yachts coming alongside at the harbour.
The change of pace let us plan out the next step of the trip and we caught the bus the next day for Athens and on to the Cyclades islands.

Athens


We caught a train to Rome and because we have been before we didn’t stop but we had a couple of hours to spare so we took in the colleseum and the trevi fountain again….both were predictably impressive and busy (of course). Anyway we eventually got our flight to Athens and arrived late. By the time we located the hotel it was almost one so we crashed out waiting to see what the morning would bring.
Breakfast on the roof terrace with a view of the acropolis was fantastic, we later returned and had a bottle of wine whilst watching the sun go down but before all that we had some sightseeing to do.
The acropolis didn’t at first have the awe inspiring impact I thought it would but as te day wore on and it was still visable seemingly wherever we went I realized how lucky we had been to see it before the hoards of cruise ship passengers that descend on it later each morning.
The roman Agora and the temple of Zeus also impressed and generally Athens felt like a really nice city….certainly exceeding our (perhaps misguided) expectations.

Amalfi Coast


Yes, we really did manage to get round tem all in one day…we got the train to Sorrento and wandered its streets. I have to say that as a resort type of town its really nice, not commercialized and there wer’nt too many of those English breakfasts on offer ;-)
Its situated right on a cliff overlooking the bay of Naples and a myriad of tiny boats ploughing back and forth.
From there we caught a bus to positano (pictured). In doing so we unwittingly made the common (I suppose) mistake of sitting on the cliff side of the bus. As the driver spoke on his mobile and took Cliffside hairpins and F1 speeds we didn’t really have a chance to take in the amalfi coast. We spent some time wandering the many steps of positano and sunbathed for a while on the baking hot black sand before the bus to Amalfi.
Amalfi didn’t have the same aesthetic impact as positano but it seemed nice enough. Maybe it was the long day but we seemed to have thought more about the places we went early in the day…

Pompei


Pompeii was really amazing. It feels like the whole place is in tact and you can almost picture the people walking around 2000 years ago. Its a huge site and we literally walked round it for the whole day, never even getting tired. THe detail is incredible and we saw everything from houses, bakeries, shops, amphitheatre,s sports grounds, theatres....the list goes on. The body casts were pretty gruesome and their expressions gave you an idea of what it must have been like. Over everything loomed vesuvius as a reminder. We didn't expect there to be half as much there and so were really surprised. It wasn't even too busy which was a great thing after florence. We save some murials as well as wall paintings and frescos, all were remarkably in tact as were the roads and pavements....It really was incredible

Pisa


We caught the early train from Florence to Pisa. We hadn’t even reached the Duomo square when we saw the expected yet bizarre sight of the leaning tower. The cathedral which shares the square was impressive but to be honest its very much a side act to its more famous nieghbor.
We walked right round the tower and despite best estimates gauging its safety for something near to another 300yrs I couldn’t help but have a tinge of apprehension as we walked "under" the tower. Needless to say we survived this mild ordeal. All that remained was to leave without succoming to the urge for one of those holding up the tower photos….we just about managed and the opposite is the best we could manage in the glare of the sun.
Pisa was well worth a look but I wouldn’t want to be spending too much time here….or maybe anywhere would seem bland after the sights and scenes of Florence…